Yellowstone

The North Entrance Gate to Yellowstone just outside of Gardiner.

Our last stop was Gardiner, MT at the north entrance to Yellowstone Park. We'd learned from some trial and error that Autumn was the best time to visit...especially after Labor Day when the crowds thin out a bit. Stayed in a rental house we'd stayed in on an earlier trip here a few years ago. Had elk grazing thru the town and just on the other side of the property fence. The owner had several plum and apple trees on the lot which were all bursting with fruit at this time of year. He was in the habit of just tossing the fruit over the fence and into the little alley that ran next to the house...which attracted the elk every afternoon. It also attracted a black bear one evening. As I was sitting in the living room of the house I heard a commotion just a few feet away and looked up to see a mature cinnamon black bear trying to scale the fence to get at the trees. We alerted the owner who walked outside, clapping his hands and generally making a lot of racket to chase the bear away - which he finally did. Guess this particular bear had been seen in and around the town of Gardiner for the previous several days searching for a free meal. Made for a little excitement for us anyway - didn't even have to go into the park for our first wildlife sighting.

We experienced some great and scenic hikes on this trip, but I must admit that Yellowstone Park really is the gold standard when it comes to tramping thru the bush. Didn't hurt that the Aspens were just starting to turn - made for some spectacular walks on crisp September mornings.

One hike was well off the beaten path into the back country near the northeast entrance. As we plopped down at a remote camp site for lunch this Mule Deer came walking out of the forest towards us. At first I thought she didn't see us, but when I cleared my throat to alert her to our presence she just glanced over at us as she ambled on by (within 20 feet) to graze in the area. 

The hike went over a ridge and then down the other side into this broad valley that you can just see ahead. Never saw another soul the whole 5 hours.

The scenery in the back country is truly spectacular here, with the added attraction of coming upon thermal features like hot springs and mud pots in out of the way locations. On this hike, which parallels Nez Perce Creek, we came upon a small herd of 8 buffalo grazing near the trail and detoured up an adjacent hill to give them plenty of space. You tend not to realize just how huge these things are until you meet up with one (or more) on foot. They're also probably the second most dangerous animals in the park (after the grizzlies), but usually only threatening if you get too close and violate their "personal space"...like maybe a tourist getting out of a car to take a close-up photo for example.

Our last hike was supposed to loop around the Beaver Ponds, located just above the Mammoth area, but we only made it about 2/3rds of the way when we happened upon a small grizzly cub skittering off the trail just ahead of us. Didn't see the sow, but didn't stick around very long looking for her either. Just wanted to get the heck out of there before the mother saw us - didn't want to risk a charge from an enraged mama bear, even with the bear spray at the ready, so we hoofed it out of the area....warning several groups of other hikers as we exited. Surprising how many of them had no bear spray - a pretty basic, and necessary, precaution on any hike in the park.

I swear, there must be a special place in hell reserved for Yellowstone drivers - or at least for the type of drivers some people become when they visit the park. First of all let me just say that I have no problem with folks driving slowly and cautiously while they enjoy the beautiful scenery and wildlife that the park has to offer. I really do understand completely, and even have been known to do the same thing on occasion.        However, if you find yourself going 20 mph in a 45 zone, with cars backed up behind you in a line stretching to oh, say, infinity, and unable to pass you on the twisting and narrow mountain roads, you may want to consider using one of the handy pullouts provided every half mile or so for just this very purpose and GET THE BLOODY HELL OUT OF THE WAY! (There, I'm feeling much better already.)

Our timing turned out to be pretty good - the weather was crisp and sunny all week until the last day when the sky opened up and the rains came. So, we packed up the car and pointed the car towards the west and home. Drove out of the deluge within a couple of hours and had smooth sailing for the drive back to Vancouver.

Today is moving day. In fact the movers are packing us out even as I write this...standing up since they've just loaded all of the tables and chairs. Plan is to head out of town this afternoon and get into Colorado Springs on Saturday or (more probably) Sunday afternoon.