We departed PV on the 1st via the Primera Plus bus to Guadalajara, where we stayed for a couple of nights before pushing on to San Miguel, where we are now. Our last couple of weeks were spent revisiting some of the dreamy little Mexican beach towns to the north of us - even got to do some real snorkeling when the weather and sea state permitted. Although we enjoyed our explorations around the town of Puerto Vallarta, looking back on it I think we're both glad that we opted to stay outside of and away from the busy city. Nice place to visit but wouldn't want to live there sort of a thing.
Here's some photographic evidence of our last couple of weeks:
We returned to the Malecon several times just to stroll along the busy beachfront and have lunch. One section of the walk includes a stretch of sand castles, many of which were quite elaborate and some of which looked like they probably required a construction permit.
Our favorite of all of the pretty little beaches was Destiladeras, located about 5 miles north of us along the road to Punta Mita. It consisted of a two mile long stretch of nearly deserted beach, with this little cove situated at one end...after about a 600 yard walk around a point at low tide. We spent several relaxing afternoons here, and the little cove just beyond the rocks was my snorkeling spot.
Rita relaxing next to one of the tide pools. It was a perfect spot for us, with the extra advantage of natural shade until about 2:00 in the afternoon.
Looking down Destiladeras to the north. These palapas restaurants were about the only sign of life as you walked along the beach towards the distant headland. Am afraid it's not likely to last. Noticed that someone was developing a stretch of the coastline with condos and private clubs to offer to visiting gringos from el norte, so everything you see will be abutted by development within a few years.
The town of Sayulita has unfortunately been "discovered" by the Americans and Canadians who flock here every winter. The main attraction is that the bay encompasses one of the best surfing beaches in Mexico. There are also a number of RV parks just off the beach so it tends to get a little crowded on sunny afternoon.
The streets of Sayulita early on a weekday morning.
It really is a pretty beach. Just down a little way are a number of local fishing boats, or lanchas. Their method of launching them into and thru the surf was rather straightforward...just get a bunch of people at the stern to physically shove the things off the beach and thru the waves until the water was deep enough to crank up the engine. Same system in reverse - I never saw a boat trailer, everything was done with brute force.
Rita at the end of the beach walk.
Another of our favorite spots was San Francisco, or San Pancho as it's known locally. Still relatively undiscovered and unexploited, the idyllic stretch of beach wasn't nearly as crowded as some of the others along the coast. Don't think this will last long either, but it sure is nice while it lasts. That sleeping dog lying in the street in front of one of the restaurants sort of sums up the ambiance of the little town.
Looking south along the beach at San Pancho. That estuary just ahead had signs warning of crocodiles - not the vicious salt-water variety you find in Australia thank goodness, but the more benign fresh water types...sort of like American alligators I guess. Nevertheless I didn't see anyone swimming there.
The open-air market in San Pancho.
And a look back from the beach on an exceptionally busy day - it really was a nice place to spend a relaxing day walking about.
Driving in Mexico (at least this part of it) was no big deal once I got used to the local rules of the road, which seemed to be to ignore all speed limit and traffic signs and just race ahead like the proverbial "bat outta hell". The local drivers are very aggressive and like to tailgate in preparation for passing, which they will do just about anywhere. Double yellow line going uphill on a blind curve? No problema, senor. They'll just blast away and hope that no one is coming around the bend just ahead...and those are just the buses. There are speed bumps (called topes) strategically placed along some of the streets in the towns to encourage cars to slow down. Unfortunately many are not well marked so you can occasionally find yourself approaching one at speed (with someone right on your tail) and the ensuing hard braking to avoid tearing out the guts of your transmission, while at the same time hoping not to be rear-ended, can make for an exciting interlude on the road. Still, and with all that, driving here was mostly pleasant and without drama. Wouldn't want to do it in Mexico City however.
Although we both enjoyed our time here in the Riviera Nayarit, we were both ready for a return to the high desert of San Miguel which, after 3 years, has become our winter home-away-from-home.
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