Saturday, October 13, 2012

Vicenza and Northern Italy


 Our unexpected and unplanned stop in Vicenza has turned out to be one of the most enjoyable accidents we've ever experienced. The US Army base where we're staying, Caserma Ederle, has been a terrific place to stay for the past week or so, providing an excellent location from which to explore (via day trips by train) some of the pretty towns and cities of Northern Italy, and has also allowed us to recover somewhat from the 9 hour jet lag that we brought with us from Ramstein.

The town of Vicenza isn't on the main tourist trail and thus isn't clobbered with the crowds that descend upon some of the better known destinations around here. It's a relaxed, somewhat mellow place that invites strolling - has some great places to eat too. We've enjoyed our time here immensely, and in fact may work our way back up here once we complete our travels to the south. Here are some photos:



 One of several of the very pretty little city parks that dot the old town section of the city - in this case with a view of the Castello and the old city wall in the background.



 
 One of the old homes along the river.


 
 One interesting discovery was this monument in the central park honoring Antonio Pigafetta - the diarist on Magellan's  first circumnavigation of the world back in 1519. Although Magellan was sailing for Spain (he himself was Portugese), Pigafetta was a local Vicenito, hired by Magellan personally to keep a journal of the voyage for posterity. Turned out to be a prophetic appointment. Although Magellan and about 90% of the men on the voyage perished during the 3 year voyage, and 4 of the original 5 ships were lost, Pigafetta managed to survive and eventually published his journal in Italy a few years later, providing almost everything we know about the details of the historic exploration.


 One of our day trips was to Aviano Air base north of Venice. Wanted to check it out for future Space A travel possibilities. The nearest town on the rail line was Pordenone - another northern city well off the usual tourist track. Enjoyed a pleasant day here exploring the old town. This is the original town hall...built in 1291.



 Also had to go over to Verona - about 45 minutes by train west of Vicenza. It's not famous for much of anything except that Shakespeare set his play Romeo and Juliette here. The tale is a complete fiction of course, but that hasn't stropped local tourism officials from trading on the legend. This little courtyard for example sits just below "Juliette's Balcony". You can pay 10 Euros to have your picture taken on it. Oh, and there's a bronze statuette of "Juliette" just below and to the left of the photo. Local custom has it that it's good luck to give her right breast a little squeeze, so it's shiny and polished while the other is...well...you know. As if all of this isn't already in bad enough taste, keep in mind that the girl in the play was supposed to be only 13 years old.


 Once away from the crowds Verona proved to be a great city for strolling too, especially along the river and in back of the old citadella which you can just see on the right. The town dates to Roman times and in fact there are some very well preserved ruins from that era, including the best preserved circular amphitheater in all of Italy...still in use today I might add.



 A nice photo stop along the river.


 And another. A very pretty place on a very pretty day.




Couldn't be this close to Venice without going there for a day - even though it's not our favorite place in Italy. Our last time here was a freezing cold and rainy day in early Spring. Couldn't wait to leave. Thought we should give it another chance since the forecast was calling for a nice day, so off we went. Turned out to be much nicer than we remembered, although the crowds milling around the area of Piazza San Marco were as bad as ever. All we had to do though was walk a couple of blocks beyond St. Mark's to find an area of beautiful parks and nearly deserted Viales to stroll around. Changed our whole opinion of the city in fact. Nice to have had the luxury of enough time to relax and just absorb the city rather than to feel as though we had to run around checking off blocks on a checklist. 


 Lots of evocative scenes like this as you wander around and off the beaten path.




 And another. Looking across the lagoon of Venice to one of the churches that dominate the skyline here.


 That's St. Mark's on the immediate right... there about 150,000 people just around that corner (just kidding). The gondolas and the Vaporetto water taxis arrive and depart from the area just to the left of the photo. Can actually ride the boat back to the Railway terminal, or out to the Marco Polo international airport.




 The "Bridge of Sighs" - last view of earth for condemned prisoners back in the 15th & 16th century as they crossed over from the courts to the place of execution.

 Heading for Florence tomorrow where we'll spend a week, then on to Rome on the 21st for another. Hoping the weather holds.









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