Friday, September 9, 2011

Leaving Kodiak...and Alaska

Big disappointment - we never made it on a bear viewing flight - the weather just wouldn't cooperate. Monday's storm apparently set an all-time record for rainfall on the date (lucky us) and it didn't get a whole lot better on Tuesday or Wednesday either. At least the rain wasn't blowing sideways at 35 knots as was the case on Monday.

We did get out and about our last couple of days on the island...returning to some of the nice hiking locations we had discovered the first day, but the combination of rainy conditions and cold temperatures (highs about 54 each day) made it a challenge to be outside.





The woods were especially pretty in the mist and the rain. The mosses and ferns on the forest floor will give you an idea why Kodiak's motto is "Alaska's Emerald Isle". Like the original Emerald Isle (Ireland) the reason there are 40 shades of green is that it's particularly well watered. Rains here about 65% of the time, and our timing was bad...too late in the season I'm afraid. Need to return earlier in the summer when the chances for some sunny days increases.





Dodging the rain along a stretch of remote beach. The salmon were still running, and we saw an occasional fisherman but no bears. Did see several Bald Eagles going after an easy meal, however. Their piercing calls as they swooped down to snag a fish were pleasant on the ear. The Alaska State motto (at least for tourism marketing) is "The Final Frontier", and after spending 10 weeks here we must agree that it's well chosen - really an amazing place, and one that we hope to return to.




The Alaska Marine Highway ferry (MV Tustumena) heading out on its weekly run connecting the Alaska mainland to the islands of the Aleutian chain. From Kodiak he'll go all the way out to Dutch Harbor on the island of Unalaska, about 500 miles from here, before turning around and heading back the other way. Must be a miserable trip - the boat isn't particularly large and the big swells in the Bering Sea probably toss it around like a cork, especially this week with the big storm system still active. Wouldn't want to be on board at any rate - you'd need industrial strength dramamine just to be able to hold down your breakfast.


One of the rainy mornings we spent going to all of the little museums in town, including the Baranof Museum near the waterfront. Named for our old friend Alexander Baranof, this particular structure is the oldest surviving building from the days of Russian occupation in Alaska - built in 1792. It started out as a warehouse for the storage of Sea Otter pelts, and later became a private residence for many years after the Americans moved in. Although Baranof is the man most responsible for the Russian-American company's commercial success in Alaska his treatment of the indigenous people, especially the local Alutiiq natives, was especially brutal. For that reason his memory is alternatively revered and reviled...depending upon who you're talking to.




The Baranof Museum on a sunny day. Gleaned this photo from the Kodiak Chamber of Commerce website since ours didn't turn out nearly as well.




And a last look at the domes of the Orthodox church with the mountains beyond. Kodiak really is a gorgeous place. Would like to come back here someday, a little earlier in the summer, and explore it in more favorable conditions.

We left Kodiak yesterday morning and flew down to Seattle by way of Anchorage. Rented a car at the airport and drove down I-5 to McChord AFB where we spent the night. Up early this morning to reclaim the car in Tacoma and then drove home to Vancouver... where it's sunny and about 90 degrees. Never thought we'd be coming BACK to Vancouver to find the sun, but there you go.

We both thoroughly enjoyed our time exploring Alaska. It's one of those places we've always wanted to see and it certainly didn't disappoint. We've already talked about trying a Space-A flight from McChord to Elmendorf someday - maybe even during the winter to see the Northern Lights - but that's still a ways off in the future. Suffice to say that we love the place and have to rank it next to New Zealand as the most spectacular place we've ever visited.

And...I can now say that I've visited all of the 50 states, having saved the best for last.

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