Thursday, February 10, 2011

San Miguel de Allende

We arrived here the morning of Feb. 5, having decided to put the gloom of the Pacific Northwest Winter aside for a few weeks in search of somewhere warm and sunny. San Miguel certainly fits the bill. Highs in the 80's during the day and going down to the 30's at night. The town is located at an altitude of 6200 ft. We've both been feeling the effects of the altitude - a little surprising since we've hiked around Yellowstone at 8000 ft without any difficulty. Maybe it's a function of being dropped into it suddenly rather than after a gradual drive, but it took a few days to stop huffing and puffing on our walks.

The town is really very pretty. This area of Mexico is the old Colonial section...first settled in the 1550's after the discovery of silver in great quantities, along with some gold and copper that helped fund Spanish adventures for 250 years before the Mexican revolution in 1810, which itself began in this area.

It's a truly relaxing place too. I can see why it's so popular with a large contingent of American, Canadian, and English expats. Eternally Spring, friendly people, low cost of living, etc. It really is hard to beat as a winter destination.

Here are some photos:


The view at sunset from the rooftop terrace of our rental house. Great spot for a glass of wine in the evening.





Another view of the terrace. The place we rented is really terrific. The only unpleasant surprise was discovering that there was construction going on next door. Woke up the first morning to the sound of hammering at 7 AM. Oh well.



We're about a 20 minute walk to the Centro, or central plaza, along a picturesque walk thru winding back streets or callejons. Above is a look at the first couple of blocks.



Passing the Lavaderos, or open-air laundry area near Park Juarez. Am told that some of the local women will come here even if they have modern facilities at home for the sense of community. The water comes from local springs.



A little further along, getting into the downtown area.



Along the way you pass the local bullring. Snuck in to take a peak (and a photo). Supposed to be a Corrida this Saturday evening as part of a local fiesta. Thinking about going to see it... if only to justify reading all those Hemingway novels years ago.



Last stop for the Matadors before they enter the arena to face the horns. The shrine is devoted to La Nuestra Senora de la Esperanza (Our Lady of Hope)... which somehow only seems fitting.



Passing one of the locals. I think this guy just leads his burros around town waiting for someone to take his picture...for which he then politely requests a donation of a few pesos. Worked with us anyway.



The end of the 20 minute walk is the central plaza of San Miguel - the location of La Parroquia (the parish church) and El Jardin - the town square across from it that's basically the center of social activity in San Miguel.



A look at La Parroquia from the Jardin.



And the Jardin from the Parroquia.



Have taken a couple of side trips. The first was to the local Botanical Garden called El Charko...essentially a showcase for desert plants similar to the one they had in Tucson. Made for pleasant walking on a warm day. There's an old aqueduct and the ruins of an old mill here that dates from the 1590's. The sombrero cost me 60 pesos (5 bucks).





Also went about 45 minutes east of here to an old silver-mining ghost town called Pozos, which was a casualty of the Mexican War of Independence back in 1811 when virtually the entire town up and left to join the Insurgentes. When they returned after the peace they found that the shafts had flooded and were no longer workable...so everyone abandoned the town - just bricked up the entrances to all the homes and shops and left. Rita is standing in the courtyard of the hacienda that served as the home of the Spanish family that ran the mine. Apparently not a lot of love lost between the Spanish and the local indigenous people...then or now. Guess the Spanish were pretty oppressive during their time here... starting with Cortes in the 1520's.



Beautiful downtown Pozos...on a sunny day.


So far we're enjoying the area very much. Couldn't be more relaxing. Just wish the hammering would die down next door so we could take out the earplugs during the day.

1 comment:

mullinsclan said...

I'm really sorry we missed this opportunity after looking at all these photos. We could have been there with you guys if i wasn't in a desert right now!--Mike