Spring Trip

Looking down on Palm Desert in Southern California from our hike in the hills.

We've found the sun! Seems it spends the winter months in Nevada and Southern California - Who Knew?

Arrived in Las Vegas on the 15th and spent a few days in the city just thawing out, soaking up the sunshine, and generally enjoying the place again. Didn't do any gambling but walked around the strip taking in the sights. Had booked one show - the Phantom of the Opera at the Venetian Hotel, so stopped there to collect our tickets at the Will Call window before we returned for the show the next evening...which was terrific. We really enjoyed the night out. I even wore a coat and tie for the first time in 4 years for the occasion. Had pre and post show drinks at a bistro in the hotel that looked out over the lagoon where the gondolas were paddling up and down. Much nicer (and warmer) than our trip to the real Venice a few years ago when we nearly froze to death on a blustery early Spring day. The Gondoleers were in much better voice too. Good thing we left early - it was St. Patrick's Day and traffic was creeping up the strip thanks to all the party-goers out and about. Just what Vegas needed...one more reason for people to get hammered.

After 3 nights we headed south to Palm Desert in Southern California to visit Frank and Maureen Davis - Frank's an old friend from high school. They split time between their nice little place on a golf course in the desert and their house in Cerritos - a suburb of Los Angeles not far from the Downey/South Gate area where we both grew up and went to school. Enjoyed hanging out with them for a couple of days, and even getting in a short hike up into the foothills, before driving up to Zion National Park where we are now.



Springtime in the desert


A good look at the trail thru the hills. Really was a nice hike - wouldn't want to try it in July or August however



We even found the Palms of Palm Desert at this little oasis along the trail.


Drove back thru Joshua Tree National Monument...lots of these guys as far as the eye could see.



Arrived in Zion just in time for an afternoon hailstorm - it actually covered the ground and turned everything white for about half an hour before it all melted away. Nice this morning though - scattered sun and temps in the mid 50's - perfect hiking weather. As you can see from these two photos there's still snow at the top of the canyon so we stayed low. Found a flat hike just outside the park that worked its way up along a pretty little mountain stream coming out of the hills. The Cottonwoods were just greening up along the riverbanks, and the desert flowers were in bloom which made for an enjoyable day.





Lots of interesting rock formations with the evidence of the years, millennia ago, when the area was an inland sea.

The weather is supposed to be cooperative for the next few days before turning showery for our departure day on Friday. It's forecast to be cold and snowy in Bryce so we're going to skip it and drive around to the Grand Canyon instead. Still supposed to be a bit chilly, but at least the forecast is a bit more promising than Bryce Canyon.

Searching for the Sun

After being home from the Mexico trip for 3 weeks - and having it rain virtually every day - we've decided to give up on Vancouver and go looking for the sun. Will be flying to Las Vegas later today for a brief two week trip that will include short stays at Zion and Bryce Canyon NP's in southern Utah, and a side trip down to Palm Desert in California to visit some old friends from High School. Hoping for lots of good weather and the forecast looks promising.

Will be nice to actually have to use sunscreen again anyway...

San Miguel Part Cuatro

We cut the trip to San Miguel a little short due to the construction noise coming from the house next door. Too bad, because we really enjoyed the town... and this area of Mexico in general, but the racket got to be a bit too much after a while.

Must confess that my previous image of Mexico was formed from visits when I was younger to the border towns of Mexicali, Tijuana, Nuevo Laredo, Matamoros and Juarez. We both found San Miguel to be a world away from all that. Safe, secure, beautiful, clean and friendly to visitors - it was just a pleasure to be here. We enjoyed it so much, in fact, that we spent part of our final week looking at other places to stay in the town for a more extended trip next winter. Guess we've really become snow birds now, because we found a beautiful, old, "hacienda" type property not far from the Centro area around the Parroquia, and booked it for two months next December and January. It's in its own little compound, with the home wrapped around a pretty little garden with a fountain.


A view of the back of the house looking up from the garden area



The Estancia...essentially a covered patio at the rear of the home that looks out over the garden. The photo really doesn't do it justice.


The dining room just off the Estancia with the garden in the background.



A view from the upper terrace looking towards the fountain in the garden. It really is a pretty little place.


We were sorry to leave Mexico, especially considering the weather that was waiting for us in Vancouver the day we departed. We left behind endless summer days and 85 degree temperatures for the endless rain and 36 degree temperatures that met us on our return. Talk about a shock to the system. Took a few days to get re-acclimated to winter weather and the general idea of not being able to go outside anymore, not to mention trading summer shirt sleeves for winter woolies again.

We didn't expect to enjoy San Miguel as much as we did, but the little town really worked its magic on us, and we're looking forward to a much longer stay in the beautiful house we've booked for next year.

San Miguel Part Tres

Working our way thru the Mercado de las Artesanillas.

The little town continues to beguile us with its myriad charms. Probably doesn't hurt that the weather seems to be perfect every day. Our average day starts with a relatively early wakeup, a short walk in the crisp morning air down the street to Parque Juarez where Rita runs and I walk for about 30 minutes, then breakfast and out the door for several hours of mindless rambling around the town. We usually wind up back at the Jardin around 3 PM (ie after lunch) where we sit and people-watch for an hour or so, have an ice cream, and generally behave in as slothful a manner as possible before heading back to the house. After a shower we have a glass of wine up on the rooftop terrace watching the sun go down. I swear - this place really is where stress goes to die.

Celebrated Valentine's Day with the locals by spending a couple of hours wandering around the Mercado. Thought the street vendor in the photo below was going to float away like Mr. Fredrickson in Up.






Walked up the steep hill just behind the house to the Mirador where we stumbled upon a nice Italian restaurant with a sweeping panoramic view over the town. Had a great lunch in true Italian fashion...lingering for a couple of hours and just being mesmerized by the view.

It was good that the walk back to the house was all downhill. After a couple of glasses of wine and a stomach full of Italian food we were practically somnambulant all the way home.

On the way up the hill we happened upon a little church - a chapel really - and noticed a small crowd of locals forming up for what we assumed was mass. We followed them in only to realize after a few minutes that it was a Quinseanero for one of the local girls and that everyone else in the church was somehow related to her. It's essentially a "coming out" party for a Mexican girl when she turns 15. I had read about the ceremony but never expected to see one (or be in one for that matter). It was really quite charming. After the mass was over the priest "introduced" the girl to the community, and she then stood and delivered a little speech in which (as near as my limited Spanish would permit me to translate) she thanked her parents and family for their love and support while she was growing up. Really very touching.




Lots and lots of Bougainvilla blooming all over town make every walk seem like a parade



Seems as though there's a church every block or so, and all of them ancient - tracing their founding back to the 17th or 18th century. Also looked like the church doors were original issue, with intricate allegorical carvings from the time when hardly any of the congregation was literate.


The courtyard in the Instituto Allende, a famous local college with specialized courses in Art and in the Spanish language. It's open to the public and has a lot of little shaded nooks to take a break during the heat of the day.



Another courtyard. Even has a pretty good restaurant and a small cafe.



This is the view from the back terrace of the Institute. As you've probably figured out by now everything here is centered on the Parroquia.

Signed up for a "Discover San Miguel" tour one day thru the Biblioteca and it was really pretty good. Saw a few things around town that we wouldn't have found on our own anyway. Part of the tour was a drive out to Allende Viejo, or old San Miguel - the site of the original settlement dating from 1542. Guess the original village was overrun and virtually annihilated during an Indian attack a few years after its founding, after which it was decided to re-establish the town in the more defensible position it presently occupies. This little church dates from the 1540's and was "refurbished" in 1680. Might have been the site of the "last stand" back in the 1550's - thought I could make out a few bullet holes in the facade.






The other day we did a tour to Teotihuacan near Mexico City - the site of the largest pre-Columbian ruins in Mexico dating from about 200 BC. Wanted to be sure I got my money's worth so I made it a point to climb to the top of both of the major pyramids - the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon, which are the views you see in the photos below. The broad avenue stretches for about 2 miles and is the Avenue of the Dead...all of the large and small structures you see are burial sites. At the peak of its power around the year 750 AD this was a city of 250,000 people...making it the 3rd largest city on earth at that time.





We timed it right by doing it in the middle of the week and this time of year. Minimal crowds and not too much hassle from the ever-present street vendors that infest the place. Was afraid it was going to be unmercifully hot but it turned out to be pretty pleasant all day. It's located at 7,500 ft elevation which helped keep the temps down I guess - had read that it can be a real gridiron up here some days.

Made for an interesting, but tiring, day. Was great to finally get dropped off back at the house that evening.

San Miguel Part Dos

A view of San Miguel from the El Charco Reserve


Been out and about the town for the last several days and have been enjoying it very much. The area's charms are subtle but undeniable, combining some of the best elements of Italy and Spain...especially Tuscany and Mallorca. The weather has been just gorgeous - bordering on hot some days at mid-afternoon. This being the high desert it cools off quickly once the sun heads on its downward arc around 3 PM.

Did another day trip to the El Charco Botanical Reserve on the edge of town, this time taking the backpack, water and lunch for some light-duty hiking in the Northern part of the reserve. Walked around for about 3 hours in a leisurely meander. Another active and relaxing day.


The ruins of an old hacienda


This is a sweat lodge that the Botanical Garden occasionally offers for groups who want to reconnect with their "Inner Indian"


The view down the Valley from the North side


Lots of photo ops as we wander around the town. It's a very peaceful & tranquil place, and the locals are genuinely friendly towards the visitors

Signed up for a Sunday House & Garden tour offered by the local Biblioteca...supposed to be one of the "must do's" while you're here. Got to tour two old haciendas in town - the first was just gorgeous, with an inviting courtyard, pool, many terraces, etc. Exactly what your mental image of a Mexican hacienda probably is.

The other was the home of one of the local artists who's lived here for many years...one of the Children of the 60's who apparently migrated here years ago and just stayed on. To say that the place was gaudy would be an understatement. Overheard a comment from a guy just in front of us who said in a stage whisper to his wife that "if you googled "tacky" this is what would pop up" - couldn't have said it better myself. The owner/artist was there receiving the visitors as they trooped by...attired in a Sergeant Pepper military style tunic complete with epaulettes - just a tad over the top. Couldn't decide whether he looked more like Idi Amin or Moammar Khaddafi. Don't know about his talent as an artist, but the house looked like he had decorated it after way too many pitchers of Margaritas.
Here are some photos from the homes- all but one from the first house. See if you can tell which photo is from house number 2.



I could be happy here
























The place is really growing on us and we're liking it more and more the longer we stay. Looking forward to more exploratory trips around town and the nearby environs. Have booked a trip to the pre-Columbian ruins of Teotihuacan on Thursday...should be fun.

Had thought there wouldn't have been much difference between the cost of living here versus the US, but have been pleasantly surprised at how relatively cheap everything is. The exchange rate at the moment is about 12 pesos to the dollar - not sure how that stacks up historically but it does seem as though the dollar goes a long way here.

There's no need for a car here - in fact the narrow, cobble stoned streets and compact downtown area invite walking. For longer trips the local buses are cheap and reliable. The place we're renting is about a mile (20 minute walk) from the Parroquia downtown, and passes several inviting little parks along the way. You do need some sturdy walking shoes, however, since the cobble stones are widely spaced and pretty rough...would be easy to twist an ankle if you weren't careful. What traffic there is moves very slowly thru the town...only about 10 miles per hour - thanks to the ruggedness of the surface and the fact that they have speed bumps about every hundred yards or so to keep everything slow. Makes it especially nice to be a pedestrian.

San Miguel de Allende

We arrived here the morning of Feb. 5, having decided to put the gloom of the Pacific Northwest Winter aside for a few weeks in search of somewhere warm and sunny. San Miguel certainly fits the bill. Highs in the 80's during the day and going down to the 30's at night. The town is located at an altitude of 6200 ft. We've both been feeling the effects of the altitude - a little surprising since we've hiked around Yellowstone at 8000 ft without any difficulty. Maybe it's a function of being dropped into it suddenly rather than after a gradual drive, but it took a few days to stop huffing and puffing on our walks.

The town is really very pretty. This area of Mexico is the old Colonial section...first settled in the 1550's after the discovery of silver in great quantities, along with some gold and copper that helped fund Spanish adventures for 250 years before the Mexican revolution in 1810, which itself began in this area.

It's a truly relaxing place too. I can see why it's so popular with a large contingent of American, Canadian, and English expats. Eternally Spring, friendly people, low cost of living, etc. It really is hard to beat as a winter destination.

Here are some photos:


The view at sunset from the rooftop terrace of our rental house. Great spot for a glass of wine in the evening.





Another view of the terrace. The place we rented is really terrific. The only unpleasant surprise was discovering that there was construction going on next door. Woke up the first morning to the sound of hammering at 7 AM. Oh well.



We're about a 20 minute walk to the Centro, or central plaza, along a picturesque walk thru winding back streets or callejons. Above is a look at the first couple of blocks.



Passing the Lavaderos, or open-air laundry area near Park Juarez. Am told that some of the local women will come here even if they have modern facilities at home for the sense of community. The water comes from local springs.



A little further along, getting into the downtown area.



Along the way you pass the local bullring. Snuck in to take a peak (and a photo). Supposed to be a Corrida this Saturday evening as part of a local fiesta. Thinking about going to see it... if only to justify reading all those Hemingway novels years ago.



Last stop for the Matadors before they enter the arena to face the horns. The shrine is devoted to La Nuestra Senora de la Esperanza (Our Lady of Hope)... which somehow only seems fitting.



Passing one of the locals. I think this guy just leads his burros around town waiting for someone to take his picture...for which he then politely requests a donation of a few pesos. Worked with us anyway.



The end of the 20 minute walk is the central plaza of San Miguel - the location of La Parroquia (the parish church) and El Jardin - the town square across from it that's basically the center of social activity in San Miguel.



A look at La Parroquia from the Jardin.



And the Jardin from the Parroquia.



Have taken a couple of side trips. The first was to the local Botanical Garden called El Charko...essentially a showcase for desert plants similar to the one they had in Tucson. Made for pleasant walking on a warm day. There's an old aqueduct and the ruins of an old mill here that dates from the 1590's. The sombrero cost me 60 pesos (5 bucks).





Also went about 45 minutes east of here to an old silver-mining ghost town called Pozos, which was a casualty of the Mexican War of Independence back in 1811 when virtually the entire town up and left to join the Insurgentes. When they returned after the peace they found that the shafts had flooded and were no longer workable...so everyone abandoned the town - just bricked up the entrances to all the homes and shops and left. Rita is standing in the courtyard of the hacienda that served as the home of the Spanish family that ran the mine. Apparently not a lot of love lost between the Spanish and the local indigenous people...then or now. Guess the Spanish were pretty oppressive during their time here... starting with Cortes in the 1520's.



Beautiful downtown Pozos...on a sunny day.


So far we're enjoying the area very much. Couldn't be more relaxing. Just wish the hammering would die down next door so we could take out the earplugs during the day.

Winter Update

We finally got out of Georgia on the 14th after spending an extra 4 days in Valdosta - courtesy of the winter snow storm that hit the Atlanta area just as our original flight was supposed to depart. Guess they got hammered pretty good up there - 5 to 7 inches of snow is what I heard. Enough to close the airport for a couple of days anyway. We then got caught up in the clearing of the backlog at Delta. Pretty painless actually, especially since we had the extra time to spend with the grand kids, and I must confess that Delta handled the cancellations and rebookings quite well.

Been Skyping with Jennah and Makenna which has been fun and has been a good way to stay connected. Says she's been able to Skype with Mike pretty regularly since he's been deployed, and that he's doing well in Qatar.

We're already looking forward to a return trip to Valdosta in April - booked the tickets a few days ago. Plan to help get the house ready for sale by doing some painting while we're there next time since it appears that Mike may be up for orders once he returns from this deployment.

Things are pretty routine here in Vancouver. I was able to go hiking yesterday for the first time in about 8 weeks, and today am feeling the muscle soreness that comes with a long layoff like that. Need to get back into hiking shape ASAP - too much Christmas cheer during the month we spent in Georgia (and Florida). It's been warm enough to melt most of the snow along the Gorge I noticed yesterday so most of the trails appear to be open...pretty unusual for January. I can recall our first winter here a few years ago when I couldn't access any of the higher trails until June.

We're looking forward to taking off next week for a 6 week stay in Central Mexico. Will be staying in the village of San Miguel de Allende - one of the old Colonial silver mining towns in the central highlands (it's located at 6,200 ft. elevation), and which is supposed to be quaint, pretty, safe, and WARM...supposed to be sunny and in the 80's this time of year, although it gets down into the 30's at night. Should be a relaxing stay. The photo below is supposed to be from the rooftop terrace of our rental home.

San Miguel de Allende

Will post a few photos of the place once we get settled in.